Glossary entry

French term or phrase:

robe à panier

English translation:

dress with panniers

Added to glossary by Roberta Beyer
Sep 11, 2012 17:40
11 yrs ago
7 viewers *
French term

robe à panier

French to English Art/Literary Textiles / Clothing / Fashion 18th century clothing
This term actually came up in a text about seatweaving I am translating. I am very clear on what it means, as a Google search shows lots of images and sites. It also brings up Reverso with the definition as "pinafore," but I really do not think this is correct, at least not in this context.

Here is the context:

Le cannage

Il fit son apparition en Europe à mesure que les aventuriers et les marchands de la routedes Indes ramenaient d’Orient des matières premières et des savoir-faire. Ainsi en fut-ildu rotang (le rotin). Là-bas, il servait depuis des siècles à garnir sièges et châlits, de façonplus ou moins sophistiquée selon les classes sociales auxquelles ils étaient destinés. Ici, les chaisiers des cours royales s’en emparèrent pour donner de la légèreté à leur mobilier. Venu d’Angleterre et des Pays-Bas, le cannage commença à être en vogue en France auXVIIe siècle, mais ne s’implanta vraiment qu’au XVIIIe siècle. Les sièges « foncés de canne » connurent en effet un grand succès sous la Régence et Louis xv. Ils répondaient à une attente de confort et de fantaisie... et se prêtaient parfaitement aux robes à panier des femmes, qui tenaient une place de plus en plus importante dans les salons. Cette mode se poursuivit pendant le règne de Louis XVI, avec des innovations comme la canne dorée ou cérusée.

Here is the google image search:

https://www.google.com/search?num=10&hl=en&site=imghp&tbm=is...

To be clear, it is very clear to me what robe à panier refers to in French. However, I do not think "pinafore" is an appropriate translation, and I am wondering if there is an accepted term used when describing 18th century fashion to refer to this kind of dress. I am hoping that someone with even a basic knowledge of this area will look at the pictures and know exactly what it is.

Thank you!

Discussion

Alison Sabedoria (X) Sep 12, 2012:
Interesting detail about the chair! Not sure I'd describe myself as a "fan" of historical costume, as I've shed blood and tears making and wearing farthingales (pre-panniers) and corsets. All tht cane and boning, properly fitted, is not too uncomfortable, more like a galleon in full sail than a garden shed, but with room for concealing a lover, embarrassing bump, or even - for that modern touch - a lawnmower! ;)
Kate Collyer Sep 11, 2012:
Incidentally, I believe the first 'kissing chair' (a sofa which has two individual seats facing in opposite directions) was designed in this era so that a man could circumvent the panniers to kiss his beloved.
Kate Collyer Sep 11, 2012:
I think jmleger has a point - the panniers are not part of the dress or the skirt, hence my suggestion in Dr Lofthouse's answer. As a fan of historical costume for 20+ years, I have most frequently come across the term panniers on its own to describe the fashion, rather than pannier(ed) dress.

Proposed translations

+6
4 mins
Selected

panniered dress

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pannier_(clothing)

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Note added at 6 mins (2012-09-11 17:47:03 GMT)
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..must have been like wearing a garden shed :)
Peer comment(s):

agree JaneD
2 mins
agree philgoddard : "Pannier dress" gets far more Google hits.
9 mins
agree Kate Collyer : My preference would be for "dress with panniers".
1 hr
agree Alison Sabedoria (X) : With Kate as first choice "dress with panniers", second choice Phil's "pannier dress".
1 hr
agree emiledgar : with Wordeffect
14 hrs
agree tradu-grace : Pannier dress
3 days 53 mins
Something went wrong...
4 KudoZ points awarded for this answer.
29 mins

Hooped skirt

It's the skirt that's hooped, not the dress.
Peer comment(s):

neutral Kate Collyer : Hooped implies circular, whereas this fashion was an oblong elongation of the hips. // I know the term *is* used, but it will still give the wrong impression.
31 mins
Go check hooped skirt on Wikipedia
Something went wrong...
41 mins

crinoline (dress)

the other in FR is crinoline, which can be found in any dictionary.
However, une échelle à crinoline is a safety ladder. Go figure...

And if ghits are viewed as an indicator of relevance, crinoline dress wins (at least with my settings)!

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Note added at 47 mins (2012-09-11 18:28:25 GMT)
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Wrong, I'm out.Crinoline is XIXth rather than XVIIth according to my ref
Peer comment(s):

neutral Kate Collyer : Your amendment is right, crinolines are later.
17 mins
It shows that I only have vague notions about clothing... But at least I learned something today.
Something went wrong...

Reference comments

3 days 1 hr
Reference:

robe à panier /cartwheel farthingale/mantua

hereunder just some links related to a/m terms:

http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vertugadin
http://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guardinfante
Il periodo in cui fu maggiormente usato, però, il XVIII secolo quando le gonne dovevano diventare talmente tanto ampie da poter mettere le mani ai fianchi. La struttura della sottostruttura del Rococò era un po' diversa rispetto al guardinfante seicentesco e assunse il nome di **panier** (paniere, poiché ricordava i grandi cesti per il pane).
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farthingale
Farthingale is a term applied to any of several structures used under Western European women's clothing in the late 15th and 16th centuries to support the skirts into the desired shape. It originated in Spain.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1650–1700_in_fashion#Mantua
cartwheel farthingale
http://www.noblesseetroyautes.com/nr01/2011/12/robe-a-panier...
Le palais de Kensington à Londres vient de faire l’acquisition pour son fonds permanent d’une robe à panier de Cour. L’hégémonie de la mode française n’est pas totale quand à partir de la moitié du XVIIIème siècle émerge une mode nationale dans les Cours européennes. Ainsi l’exemple de **la robe à panier** (en anglais « **mantua** ») portée en Angleterre et aux Pays-Bas par les femmes de la Cour, cascade de soie et de dentelle. Cette forme de vestiaire n’a jamais existé dans le vestiaire français. Celle-ci achetée 80 000 livres sterling par le Palais de Kensington fut portée par la marquise de Rockingham vers 1760.
http://www.earlymoderndressandtextiles.ac.uk/bibliography/Co...
A richly decorated robe and matching petticoat made in a magnificent silk brocaded tabby, **the costume is a mantua**, intended to be worn for presentation at Court in England. These garments dated to the late 17th century and were informal, loose gowns. The style fossilized into a fitted bodice, pleated into the small of the back, and a train, lifted off the ground by a pin or fastener. Such garments were so valuable that they were recycled for the original owner's daughter, or other relative, when their turn to be presented came; this example was worn at a Court ball in 1845.
Since the late 1970s the **mantua** has been on almost constant display. The authors describe the technical research, materials analysis and conservation, and re-evaluate previous reconstructions carried out on the dress


HIH
Something went wrong...
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