GLOSSARY ENTRY (DERIVED FROM QUESTION BELOW) | ||||||
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16:57 Jun 29, 2018 |
Polish to English translations [PRO] Tech/Engineering - Textiles / Clothing / Fashion / Krawiectwo | |||||||
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| Selected response from: Frank Szmulowicz, Ph. D. United States Local time: 07:50 | ||||||
Grading comment
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Summary of answers provided | ||||
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2 | grading |
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grading Explanation: The seams down the front are graded so that the widest layer will lay next to the portion that shows on the outside of the garment (Fig. 19). The lapel wi II be graded so that the widest area wi II lay next to the facing. At the point where the facing reverses from the outside to the underside, clip into the seam and reverse the grading. This will keep the widest seam allowance on the top and prevent a ridge from showing on the right side. Usually 3/8" for the wider seam allowance and 1 /4" for the narrower are sufficient. Press seams open, then to one side. Those in the lapel area will turn toward the garment, the portion below the lapel will turn toward the facing https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=5... ccccccccccccccc WHY TRIM AND GRADE SEAM ALLOWANCES? You can sew a lovely neat seam and press it perfectly, but if you don't trim and grade those seams where necessary you will be left with a bulky, bumpy appearance on the right side of the garment. Trimming refers to reducing a seam allowance to prevent bulk. Grading is used in an enclosed seam to reduce the bulk created by the layered seam allowances. Trim, grade, and press in the right places and your seams will look as smooth as silk. https://fancycollective.com/blogs/sew-easy/how-to-trim-and-g... cccccccccccccccccc Grading Increasing and or decreasing a base size pattern to fit various sizes. To reduce layers of seam allowance to reduce bulk when sewing a seam such as around the collar/neckline of a coat. https://www.universityoffashion.com/resources/terminology/ |
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Grading comment
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